Congratulations to Lisa and Steve on your wedding day, 22nd Nov, we were thinking of you. Send us a mail when you get back... After our last posting, we got up nice and early the next day to get a matatu to Malindi, on the coast north of Mombasa. As far as matatu rides go this one was exceptionally comfortable, i did not scream once. We then got a tutu (a mini matatu, just as insane) into the town where we found Ozzis guest house. A lovelly view from the balcony overlooking the blue sea and the golden sand, but unfortunately slap bang next to a Mosque. We are getting used to the mosques, and as long as you're not too close, the songs are quite pleasant when the sun is setting, albeit a pain in the rectum when the sun is rising. We went to a nice part of the beach, only to be ushered back off it by security. Ruddy posh hotel, with their buckets of money, not wanting their views spoilt by a pair of scruffy urchins (probably where R.Redfords character in Out of Africa stayed, mum). We found a nice bar next to the sea, showing the football, which Jo made me watch! They had some amazing King Fish Steaks. After a couple too many beers, we retreated to the roof top, and stared at the stars, and a rather bright Mars. Thats was a week ago, and its still prominent in the sky. The next day we got a tutu to Lamu, in a cool little plane from Malindi airport to Manda Island airport, where we got a boat taxi to Lamu town. Joey and I have mastered the bartering now, using the good ole good cop bad cop method. It started by accident as I have to wait outside with the bags in the soaring heat while Jo checks out the rooms. While Jo is checking out the rooms, checking fans, nets, water pressure etc, she will slowly with her charm haggle of about a third of the price, however not including breakfast. On returning downstairs, where I am now in a rightfully poor mood, Jo will recant the tale, and I will try to knock a few more percent off, bluffing that we are prepared to find elsewhere (which in truth would never happen, as its too ruddy hot), they usually knock some more off and throw breakfast in. Everything is negotiable here, i dont know if I said, but we also managed to haggle currency rates in a bank! So we managed to get a nice place in Lamu for a very reasonable price. (Joey here now..) In all we spent 6 nights on Lamu Island, the first 4 in Lamu Town followed by 2 at Shella. In hindsight it would have been the other way round, but it was still great. Lamu is a very interesting place - the sea front path extend all the way along the town edge and onto Shella further south, interrupted by the odd sea wall, beach or rocky patch which you have to clamber over. As you walk back away from the sea you pass through lots of narrow sandy/dusty streets with little food/clothes/curio etc shops. Apparently backpackers have been visiting for many years so this has influenced the market, but probably not as much as you might expect. And the place is full of wonderful, hard working donkeys. There is also a donkey sanctury on the sea front, so I'm not sure if they take it in turns for a rest or if some are very hard done by - as they seemed to be all ages so it wasn't just for the old ones. But in general they seemed healthy well fed donkeys carrying potato sacks holding coral rock bricks (which I was told was taken from a licenced site, like a quarry and wasn't upsetting any fish!) or sand. There seems to be a lot of building work going on. However we didn't see any wearing nappies. This, I have been informed by my Mum, was written in a guide about Kenya in 1988 and was prompted by complaints of too much donkey poo on the streets by tourists! We arranged a trip out on a dhow, with Captain Happy, to go fishing and snorkling the next day (smudge, they work well, but with a few refinements i think we could win the yearly regatta they have there - Dave). A few young blokes took us and some other Muzungus over to Manda Island (Mushy - this is the word used to describe foreigners, mainly whites, and seems a friendly term although I don't think it has always been) where Dave caught 2 yellow snapper (probably on the IUCN endangered list, will have to check when we get home!) more than the other Muzungus. I gave up after about a minute. These would later become lunch. We then snorkelled over what we were expecting to be a nice reef but because of the sediment was extremely difficult to see. I managed to dive down and see some fish, but the others didn't and it was quite dissapointing. We had 4 casualties in all. I was the first, after checking with the captain that it was deep enough to jump, dived in (shallowly just to sure) and still managed to scrape my arm along the coral. It's just about healing now but I have been swimming every day since then so it's taking longer! The others got cuts on feet and one got a sea urching spine in his foot, after which at least 2 knives were taken out and people start cutting his feet up. I can't believe he let them. A bad thing about Lamu was the unique putrid smell carried on the wind in certain parts long the seafront. Really gross. I think it's the litter and open sewage, although I quite like the smell of open sewers and this smell is really unbearable. Litter is quite a problem in Africa, we saw a poor donkey eat a plastic bag and it probably happens a lot, should think it also has quite an impact on the marine life. Being a muslim island there were only 2 places to get alcohol. The cheapest of which, surprise surprise, was the police canteen. Whilst there Dave became seriously addicted to lime juice which was absolutely delicious. All the juices were, but Dave stuck to his lime. The next day, we managed to get a posh pool all to ourselves in an expensive hotel - I don't know where all the residents were! It was great. On Wednesday 23rd we checked out Shella Beach, really magnificent sand dunes, stretching for 12 kms, and found a place to stay, a 90 dollar ensuite with veranda that we got for 14). So the next day we found a boat to take our bags and walked along to meet them. We explored the town, smaller, less smelly, quieter, not as much rubbish, all in all very nice, and found another posh hotel. Sorry to dissapoint Em, but we're not exactly roughing it at the moment! And bearing this in mind we decided to splash out on our last night in Lamu on a huge slap up meal in the posh gaff in town Peponi's Hotel. Lovely, overlooking the harbour, candlelit tables outside for drinks then into the restaurant. The meal was so huge and becuase Dave's tummy has shrink so much, he was full after the starter, but needless to say he managed to perservere. Dave's explanation for his weight loss is that he's basting in the heat - the fat is just sliding off the sides...... Unfortunately the same is not happening to me.... That night Dave caught a dose of the Shella Shits or Shella Pringles (sorry Nan) as Dave likes to call them - once you've popped you just can't stop! Poor Dave, but he's been a very good boy and after several expulsions and a couple of imodium we caught our boat to Manda Island airport to fly back to Malindi. From there we caught a couple of matatus to Watamu, south of Malindi but north of Mombassa. Tonight will be our second night in the very comfortable Villa Veronica a shgort walk from the beach. We encountered a disproportionate number of Italians in a local bar last night - very raucous. Tomorrow we are going snorkelling over the reef within the Watamu Marine National Park. However, our captain who is currently studying Marine Biology explained that a lot of the coral is dead due to El Nino a few years ago, but also due to people damaging it, so we'll see. Should be a good day anyway. Smudger - our photos are most definitely not postcards!! I took the lion one and Dave took the elephants good eh? Everyone can vote on which one you prefer if you like!! Gem, the 'horses' are something very intellectual that Dave knows about - look it up on google! Lucky for Dave he wasn't on safari when his case of the Pringles hit, like you were in 1990!!! Lucky lions must have had a great view and luckily must have eaten shortly beforehand. Michie and Ross have a great time travelling in South America - if you have webiste let us know! Dave is going to attempt to add another link to a site of Andy and Cheryls who are on their way to Norway from Cape Town in their 4x4 (mentioned earlier). He will also try and add some more photos, so here goes...

The two lesser known horses of the apocalypse.

OK so we managed to get out of Kampala safely! The day after we last wrote the city errupted in protests about Museveni's opponent, Besigye, who had returned from exile in S. Africa after 4 years. Besigye is now being tried for olluding with the rebel fighters and a lot of Ugandans are not happy about this, saying he is a rightful opponent. So that day we were going to go into town and meet up with our German friends (Barbara and Marcus - if you're reading this, we wanted to meet up but decided it was safer to leave when we could. We hope you are safe) but other travellers at our campsite returned from town having been tear gassed and shot at. Luckily we had decided on a quiet day doing a bit of laundary and playing cards! The protests continued the next day and John, the mad Aussie owner of the Backpackers campsite, drove us to the brow of the hill overlooking Kampala. Using binoculars we could see the smoke and hear gunshots. Needless to say we didn't venture into town that day either. So, along with Steve an Irish bloke and a couple of Kiwi ladies, Karen and Sarah, we decided to try to catch the next early morning bus outta town and scarpered. Eight hours later we arrived in Nairobi and caught a taxi to the Nairobi Backpackers - nice place - and had a good meal followed by an early night ..... in a really comfy bed!!! Nice after lots of nights in the tent with Dave rolling over you. Up again early (that's 2 5.30 starts in a row) the next day we caught a taxi to the bus station and swapped our Dar es Salaam tickets booked in Kampala, for tickets to the coast at Mombasa instead. A slight change of plan to include more sea is much needed. We are now enjoying Mombasa, having collected our money bag from the bus station's lost property office which contained nothing too horrendous, just driving licences and health certificates and diving cards (oops!). Have enjoyed a drink outside the front of the Catle Hotel for posh people, lovely colonial building and it only costs 35 squids a night, still too expensive for us though. We ahve just booked 2 flights to Lamu and we're very excited. This is also an addition to the trip (after lots of discussion and persuading of Dave ;-) and we leave for Malindi, north of Mombasa tomorrow, then fly on Sunday. We come back to Malindi on Sat 26th but have the option to change the date once without charge, so who knows!!! It sounds fantastic and is described in our very thorough guide book as 'unmissable'! Off to the old town next to see Fort Jesus. I'm all covered up with long dress and shirt so as not to offend the muslims. Mum, Dad, Linda and Kev - where did we stay in 1990? I know it was near Mombasa but not sure exactly where.... Forgot to mention (I think) that when we on safari in the Masai Mara we had a few loo stops in Keekorok Lodge - v. posh and lovely - and I think we stayed there or maybe had anafternoon swim there? Am I right? I recognised the loos. (Dave writes) For those wondering about this post title. After leaving the war zone in Kampala, we stopped in Nairobi, where the following day there were violent political protests. So Jo and I are the lesser know horses of the apocalypse, 'Political Protest' and 'Beer bottle tops', which we leave in our trail... Josie and Matt - so far we've collected a few good names; how about Yoweri, Kizza, Moses, Imani for starters. By far the most popular is Moses. Will keep looking!

Photos

Gorillas in the mist

We've made it back from the Gorilla tracking, it was one of the most amazing experiences i have ever had. I'll tell you more about them later... I thought it might interest you to get a view of the day to day life of the Ugandan town\city. The first thing that struck me was the weaponary everywhere, you walk down the street and the cops have shotguns, you walk into a bank and the guard has kalashnikovs. Even the supermarkets have armed guards at the door, and you have to leave your bags outside. Poverty is pretty obvious as well, its heartbreaking walking past a 1 or 2 year old toddler sitting in the kerb begging. The streets are hot, dusty and the fumes make quite a potent cocktail. Yet, the people seem pretty jolly, most smile and joke. Outside of the city, are small dusty, red mud tracked towns. Cattle (with great horns) roam free with small goats. The buildings are collapsing, a mixture of brick work and traditional mud huts. Every town has a Hotel come butchery! The womens dresses are splendid floral patterns, and with large shoulder pads, not quite shoulder pads though, more of a tower, almost to the ear. No prams, the babies are carried on the womens backs via a shawl tied around the back, sitting just above the buttocks. Where ever you walk, people shout mazungu to you. A typical conversation would consist of: "Mazungu, how are you" "Er, fine thank you" "Mazungu" "fine, how are you" "Mazungu, How ARE you..." (titters, laughs with friends) Occasionally, they will present you with the V sign (for victory, not the other one), which we eventually found out, means they support Col. Besigye. More about that later. Another odd sight, are the cars whizzing by with fish hanging on the mirrors or tied to the grill, not a hardcore christian as one might think, but a rather ingenious way of getting your fish home from the market without it going off. You learn things all the time. After we wrote last, Jo and I moved out of the backpackers hostel, into the Atlanta hotel in preparation for our trip to the gorillas in Bwindi national park, south west Uganda. Jo had her first near death experience, in the shower come long drop. She had successfully avoided plunging down the long drop during her shower, but, hearing a loud yelp, I found out she did manage to get rather a hefty electric shock off the taps. The next morning, we caught a bus to Butagota, just north of the park. The journey went through magnificent cultivated hillsides, steeped in banana plants. From here we managed to connect with one of the village people, and caught a lift the last 17km to the park entrance. Our lodgings were at the foot of the gorilla mountain range, a really impressive sight. The next morning we got up nice and early and met out guide, Moses. A jovial chap, who has been on TV in the UK, showing Jonny Rotten our gorillas. After a briefing, we started our trek. At the start we walked through the Batwa community village, aka pygmies, aka the forest people. Then the real trekking started. We went almost vertically up the hillside, scrambling at points. Lucky for us a spaniard with us was even more unfit than we were. So lots of breathers on the way. Out trackers had informed us the gorillas had moved over the hillside the day before. footnote: the trackers were armed again. We stopped for a quick break, chewing sugar cane. But the trek was worth the exhaustion, when we finally found the gorillas, hidden deep in the bushes, it was an experience hard to describe. They are just so peaceful, and powerful all at once. We watched the silver back and the young ones for about an hour, from a very close range, around 1 to 2 metres at times. To be honest, they spent most of the time, chewing leaves, and letting off some rather impressive pops. We will try an get some photos on the site soon. The journey down the hill was eventful, with Joey throwing her self down the hillside, while the rest of us grownups took easy controlled steps. In the end the guide had to hold Joeys hand to keep her upright. Luckily when back in camp we met a nice German couple, Barbara and Marcus, who were heading back to Kampala where they work. So we managed to cadge a lift with them, as well as an american doctor, Michelle, we met in the park. We all stopped off in Mbarara, for the night, and had a nice meal. Michelle stayed there, as she was going to work in a hospice. The rest of us continued our journey back to Kampala, stopping off at the equator and picking up a nice water melon on the way. So here we are back in Kampala. considering the next part of our jounrney. For those who have heard about whats happening in Kampala with regard to Col. Besigye, don't worry, we are not in the middle of it. For those who haven't heard, please ignore this paragraph. Madeleine - That stick of insect bite soother, that you got me for xmas, is magic. Almost instant relief, and lasts for hours. Its the organic lavender roll on stuff. If you happen to know where you got it, could you pick us up another tube for central america. Thanks. We plan to go the Ssese islands next and then a direct bus to Dar es Salaam. Hope you are all well, and we'll probably next write from Zanzibar. Lots of love.

Uganda

Firstly, a couple of things we failed to mention on the maasai, due to time restrictions. In the maasai village, the women build the huts and lucky old Jo got to have a go, which entailed slapping cow poo onto the roof of the huts, it took some persuading but she caved in in the end! Also, one of the warriors was regailing(spelling) us with his tale of killing a lion that had killed his cow. He promptly bought out this manky hat mad from the lions mane, inside of which was covered in large spiders. Sensing a photo opportunity he made me place the hat on my head, at which point my photographer, Joey, proceeded to chat to the chief, with me standing like a numski with this rotten spider infested lions mane on my head. The warrior would not let me take it off until Jo had taken the photo, but no rushing Joey eh. Anyway, back to our trip. We made it to Kampala on the, jo says comfy, i say, hells ride of a, bus. They can actually make these buses skid side ways round corners overtaking 18 wheeler trucks on single lane mud tracks. Jo was oblivious. Jo writes... Actually, I had the window seat so luckily couldnt see ahead!...Arrived in Kampala late, where we were accosted by a taxi driver, before being held up by the cops! Only wanted to see our visa stamps, but they were plain clothed. Found a nice camp, where we have finally done the laundry, hand washing stylee. Been into Kampala city centre...cant find bracket button or apostrophe, yesterday 9th Nov... this place is so much less aggressive than Kenya, and a more relaxed feel about it. Have been keeping up with all the african news and politics now, so ask away. P.s If you heard about the Briton being killed in Uganda then a) dont worry it was not us and b) its not a simple as the papers are saying, expat anyway not a tourist. p.s. found bracket button, still no sign of apostrophe. We are getting excited as we visited the Ugandan Wildlifwe Authority, and have acquired passes to see the gorillas in bwindi national park. We leave tomorrow, 11th. Well see the gorillas on the 12th. We love Uganda....its so green and lush, and hot. With big butterflies. Gotta dash as the timer is running out. Will keep you posted.

Passage from Naivasha to Kampala

Guy Fawkes Day - Andy and Cheryl kindly gave us a lift to Naivasha where we camped at Fish Eagle Camp next door to Fisherman's Camp (where we were originally going to stay - so didn't meet up with Isaac in the end, mum). Did a mini pub crawl and ended up at Fisherman's Camp - lovely bar - and the evening was finished off nicely with a magnificent fireworks display by the lake (poor hippos!). 6th Nov - Dave has now ran out of clean knickers!! thought you'd be interested... Had a lazy morning and wandered over to Fisherman's Camp for great cooked brekkie (OK so we're still not completely roughing it Em, but read on!). More lazing around then walked along the South lake Road for a few kms to Elsamere, former home of Joy Adamson. What an amazing place! I want to live here - gorgoeus gardens looking out onto the lake, fish eagles flying overhead, hundreds of starlings, and these are no ordinary starlings either, bright blue, green and red/orange. There was very interesting museum too with lots of photos of Joy and George rolling around with Lions - wonderful. We saw a film about their lives, interviews with them both which was good then outside for afternoon tea, comprising of a huge spread of different cakes and mini quiches and pizzas. Needless to say we had seconds and thirds (and I think Andy had fourths as well as finishing off Cheryl's left overs). 7th Nov - Early start waved goodbye to Andy to Cheryl. Now, the last we heard they were going to drive to Ethiopia, checking along the way how things were there. Apparently it's been a bit dodgy recently. This was about the 10th time their plan had changed so we'll see! It was great to spend a few days with them at the start of our travels. Soon after they left a hippo wandered into the campsite! Luckily it was just in Fisherman's Camp next door so we were separated by a fence. I managed to get quite close and took some cool pics. We could hear them at night in our tent - great sound - Andy does a v. good impression. Dave is now resoting to wearing a pair of stockings I brought with me as he's out of socks! Also going commando.I might stress that I wans't planning on wearing tights, they are for flitering water if we ever leave the beaten track! Caught the matatu (broken down mini-bus, rattle a lot, but seem to get us over the biggest pot holes) into Naivasha Town where we were mega hassled by matatu touts. Finally got in one after Dave had managed to wangle the price down to what we knew was local price and we were off to Nakuru. Passed another smaller lake onthe way covered in pink Flamingos! We'd thought we may try to visit Lake Nakuru which is famous for it's flamingos but in the end it was too much hassle once we arrived in the town, so we caught another matatu to Kisumu and arrived about 3.30pm. Our goal is Kampala and then Gorilla safari so we needed to push on. On the way we drove through amazing countryside, so green and hilly and the tea plantations of Kericho with the lines of tea pickers. Really lovely. Our friendly matatu driver a rranged a taxi for us at a better price and we were taken to a run down campsite. It was empty at first but gradually a few other people emerged although no other campers. Location was beautiful though, right on Lake Victoria, so we got a couple of beers and chilled by the lake, after which the camp didn't look so bad. Ate paneer with tomato crisp sarnies in our tent, yummy (Dean, you should try this - sorry Lisa!). Another early night (we tend to be asleep by 9pm, sometimes in the tent at 7.30!). 8th Nov - Up early (usually awake before 6 due to lots of birds and insects chirping and singing their hearts out) and caught a matatu back into Kisumu town Have just booked bus tickets to Kampala and we need to be back at the bus station by midday, to leave at 1pm. Should make it to Kampala by 6pm and we're heading to Kampala Backpackers Campsite which is well eastablished and Dave hopes to be able to clean his pants (so do I :-). Also need a good shower as the last camp site had a dribbly shower so haven't washed my hair in a while. Thought this would be a bonus as we'd look more like hard core travellers and wouldn't be hassled so much. Hasn't worked so far though! All showers except a couple have been cold which I actually enjoy. Right now we need to find a coffee and will probably sit in the nice green bit in the middle of the 'Mega Mart' we are in to eat another paneer and tomato crisp sarnie for breakfast. Josie we most certainly will keep an ear out for good African boys' names - hope all goes smoothly in Feb! Dean you'd like it here because they all love football, especially Manchester United (I hope you are practicing those ball skills to keep the ball in the garden!!). Tray and Tarela - what a magnificent update on the Mittens/Romeo situation - we laughed lots. Sounds like you're doing a grand job sorting the two battlers out. GO MITTENS MITTENS GO!!

Sat 4th November

We have now arrived back in Nairobi from the Maasai Mara. the Maasai is wonderful, spent 3 days on safari, and saw a whole load of big cats and game. Jo has written them all down for those who are really interested, but these cafes cost quite a bit! We are adapting to the Kenyan diet, we can only assume its the national dish, of warm coleslaw and spaghetti. Mind you we were treated to a thai curry last night from Andy and Cheryl. Back to the Maasai. We stayed in a tented camp, with some maasai "warriors" who were supposed to protect us from the lions in the bush, but they seem to spend most of there time scaring tourist with horror stories of previous visitors leaving the camp and being squashed by elephants. Our tent had a wonderful view onto a large group of baboons, so we could watch them grooming and chilling, well cool! I had a too close encounter with the wildlife on my last night. I returned to the tent at night to get the torch from one of my bags, I eventually found the torch, switched it on...and the tent was covered, on the roof, walls, luggage and me with safari ants! I was smothered, in my hair, up my pants, down my neck and on all limbs with the little buggers. And they bite, oh do they bite. I came screaming out of the tent flapping away at myself like a mad man, the maasai "warriors" who were not doubled over in laughter, came to my rescue and picked off the ants as fast as they could, I ended up stripping in front of everyone in the camp trying to get the buggers out of my clothes. It was a most painful experience! I have now added ants to my list of animals that can be happily exterminated from the face of the planet. Have now seen the public transport in africa now, and "suicidal" is the key phrase, and having "in god we trust" and "the good lord will protect us" on the front of the buses does not inspire confidence. Anyway, we have met up with Cheryl and Andy again, and we are off to the elephant orphange today, and then on to Lake Naivasha for a couple of days chilling. Until next time....

Arriving in Nairobi

Hi all! The flight was great, I slept for about 5 hours out of 13, more than Dave managed. Emirates plane food was delicious (details for mum: macaroni cheese, brocolli and carrots with salads, roll and blackcurrant cheesecake). We are just about to leave the Fairview Hotel in Nairobi to go to the Massai Mara!! This is a slight change of plan having had a quick chat to Andy and Cheryl. For those who don't know, Andy is our friend travelling from S. Africa to Norway (www.cape-to-cape.co.uk) and Cheryl is his girlfriend. They have already been to the MM and recommend it over the Serengheti as the wildebeast are leaving the Mara following the rains to the Serengheti as we speak!!! We will hopefully, fingers crossed see this for ourselves. Yesterday while I was in the gorgeous pool, Dave arranged our safari (we were both very tired so thanks Dave!) and we are being picked up from reception in 5 minutes so this has to be short. On friday we will be taken back to Andy and Cheryl's camp site in Nairobi where we will continue onto Lake Naivasha and onwards through Kenya to Uganda together in their truck, called Mel. Okay - I've been summoned to reception, Susan our guide has arrived, hopefully we'll get a chance to write more soon!! Lots of love Joey and Dave xxx